melannen: Commander Valentine of Alpha Squad Seven, a red-haired female Nick Fury in space, smoking contemplatively (Default)
[personal profile] melannen posting in [community profile] sca_attire
This is your "Omg one day til War panic!!" update on my previous to-do list post. :D The clothing tub is packed, so I am officially Done Sewing. Until I get there.

Below the cuts are details + pictures of what I got finished - I almost did the entire list! More-or-less! And if I had the seven hours of sitting-in-the-car-sewing time I was planning on before our ride arrangements got turned around, I could totally have had it all done by the time I got there. :P

Items 1-3 + 7 + 12 make up what I am calling my Tudor Ne'er-do-well outfit - the one I started last year, but I actually finished all the parts I had originally planned to do, and heavily tweaked the finished ones to make them all wearable. And it's done!

Here's the complete outfit: green cotton-linen caul (all new, machine-sewn); white cotton-linen shirt (hand-sewn, re-done shoulder line and fastenings); green cotton-linen 'singlet' (all new, machine-sewn, hand-finishing); green cotton-linen hosen (redone waistline, machine-sewn, hand-finishing). Also a period 'binder' made from some scrap white linen, but I honestly think I pass better without, because the binder gives me enough cleavage that I can't show off my natural chest hair. :P I kind of want to alter it more - do *something* about the gape at the codpiece, maybe reduce the bulk of the tails of the shirt - but it's now good enough for daily wear, at least, and the pieces can be swapped around for other outfits.

All of these are modified patterns from "The Tudor Tailor".

Me in green Tudor men's garb


Items 4-6 are the bog dress/Roman Celtic peplos, which shouldn't have been that hard, considering it's basically a square of fabric and two safety pins. Here's a picture as it currently stands:

Me in a very basic green plaid Roman drapery.

I have both a linen skirt/shirt combo and a tunica this will go well with, too, for days when it isn't being worn purely for the heat. You will note that the 5 yards of embroidered trim to give it a little more depth isn't sewn on yet, because it isn't finished, hence the lack of apoptygma. I still have about 18 inches to go on the embroidery, but I can finish that the first few days of Pennsic, right? I was going to hand-sew the hems and stuff anyway, and I can basically do it in my sleep at this point:

six feet of narrow yellow-on-green backstitched in a Cetic key design.

And I solved the fibula problem! I am very proud of myself. I was digging through my big trunk of "things that might be useful someday for making things" and I found a cache of these:

two small bronze clips folded in a narrow S-curve with one pointy end.

It's interesting showing them to people and seeing who recognizes them! The official name is apparently pin-on drapery hooks - they're for hanging curtains. They seem to sell for about $.10 these days, and I can't find any bronze ones like I'm using for sale online, but they're also the sort of thing that tends to just accumulate in junk drawers or show up in boxes of "stuff" at garage sales.

Anyway, the neat thing about them is that with just a pair of cheap needle-nose pliers, you can make one bend:

bronze clip with the pointy end of the s-curve turned 90 degrees.

And then a second bend:

bronze clip with the bent end curved over into a small hook.

And have these with ~2 minutes' effort:

six bronze safety pins as made above.

They function perfectly! I don't guarantee they'll last for years, and I haven't figured out the easy way to add decoration yet, but they'll hold up drapery for days and days of wear, and they're certainly worth $.10 and 2 minutes' effort.

I also made a couple that look more like extant La Tene fibulae; you can see one in the center bottom on the picture above. The downside is that those ones take a lot more work (more like 10 minutes' effort, and you have to make a lot more bends, and more precise ones, which increases the risk that the pin will snap; I snapped two for every one I finished, though if I practice enough to get it right the first time I'm sure my ratio will improve.) The upside is that they do work a lot better - easier to open and close (though slightly less dependable at staying closed, at least the way I'm currently doing them), less chance a sharp pointy bit will end up poking somewhere unpleasant.


And finally, 8,9,13,16: I actually went out last night and cut up that linen I bought last year! I really didn't think I'd get to this, but the alternative at that point was pre-trip tidying, so there you go. It's basically this historic tunic pattern, without the center gores (I have cut them, just haven't set them in yet) with help from The Medieval Tailor's kirtle layouts.

Me in a light green long, full tunic with a simple green-patterned overdress.

Over it is the start of a basic sleeveless surcote/scapular hybrid, using highly unhistoric patterned cotton fabric I got clearance at Renfest many years ago and have been aching to use. Surcote is currently held together with fibulae and straight pins, but I think that's basically what I want it to look like when done.

Oh, and scrap white linen cut into a head-wrap that actually fits my head for once. (The scrap linen cut into two pieces was exactly enough for the wrap + a period-style apron!)

I have to say that I have fallen in love with rectangular construction: my least favorite part of sewing is pinning, cutting, messing with patterns, and layouts, and with rectangular construction, basing your pattern on the size of your cloth, you don't have to do any of that. Plus it's very conservative with fabric, which goes well with my cheapskate tendencies - that whole tunic, including the not-yet-laid gores, used 2.5 yards of 54" fabric with enough left over if I want to lengthen the sleeves or bind the seams or make a pocket or something, and I only used scissors twice - all the other cuts were on the grain. Brilliant!

You'll have noticed it's very much not finished. I did all the long seams on the machine last night, but it is completely unhemmed, none of the seams are finished, and I need to decide what I'm doing to the sleeves and neckline, and decide if I'm going to leave it as a simple tunica, or make it more fitted around the waistline/bodice. Also, I noticed only after trying it on that I have, by complete chance of what linen was on sale, started making a cosplay outfit for one of my oldest original characters. So it may be getting some blackwork embroidery at some point.


...that's actually pretty good for a month when I was also doing a bunch of other projects.

(no subject)

Date: 2011-07-29 02:48 am (UTC)
holyschist: Image of a medieval crocodile from Herodotus, eating a person, with the caption "om nom nom" (Default)
From: [personal profile] holyschist
Wow, you have gotten a lot done! I love your clever fibulae.

With the Tudor hose, I think the issue is that the codpiece is down where the average guy's tackle would actually be, rather than up on the abdomen where codpieces usually actually sit. Basically, I'd join the hose a little further up the crotch and shift the codpiece all the way up to the waistband.

(no subject)

Date: 2011-07-29 03:25 am (UTC)
holyschist: Image of a medieval crocodile from Herodotus, eating a person, with the caption "om nom nom" (Default)
From: [personal profile] holyschist
Hmmm, yeah, it does look like maybe codpieces didn't migrate upwards until later. Possibly you didn't cut quite enough fabric in front, under the codpiece?

Adding some more fabric and points might be the easiest way to fix it. Hose are tricky!

(no subject)

Date: 2011-07-29 03:41 am (UTC)
holyschist: Image of a medieval crocodile from Herodotus, eating a person, with the caption "om nom nom" (Default)
From: [personal profile] holyschist
I am not sure that cutting the waist tightly is the best route to go for cross-dressing--I'm still experimenting, but extra stress on the fabric may actually draw attention where a baggier cut might disguise the curves. And tighter hosen are definitely more likely to bust during wear.

I'm wondering if having an extra flap of cloth under the codpiece is at all period - because surely in period there were men who'd put on weight who had the same problems! Or possibly it would just gape if you were an actual peasant (some of Breughel's paintings look about the same) and I'm worrying over nothing.

Both quite possible.

(no subject)

Date: 2011-07-29 04:36 am (UTC)
curuchamion: text icon says Fabricati Diem PVNC (fabricati diem)
From: [personal profile] curuchamion
DRAPERY HOOK FIBULAE. I have to make me some of those now. I cannot believe I never thought of that... O_O

(no subject)

Date: 2011-07-29 08:30 am (UTC)
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
From: [personal profile] pearl
I second this! That is fantastically, creatively sneaky of you!

(no subject)

Date: 2011-07-29 12:45 pm (UTC)
evaelisabeth: (Default)
From: [personal profile] evaelisabeth
I love you're creative solution, looks like you will be well dressed for war.

(no subject)

Date: 2011-07-31 04:44 am (UTC)
florentinescot: (Default)
From: [personal profile] florentinescot
I ♥ those fibulae -- and that embroidery rocks!

(no subject)

Date: 2011-08-10 10:50 pm (UTC)
all_adream: (Default)
From: [personal profile] all_adream
Clever use of the drapes-pins--

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